Sewing Basics Part I

Part I:  Sewing with Fleece

This will be the beginning of a several part series to go over some general basics when sewing for your small pets.  This lesson will cover sewing with polyester fleece.  We will not be making anything specific in this lesson, but rather discussing some principles and techniques that you will need throughout your sewing journey to insure the safety of your pets.

For this discussion, I will be posting several examples of the “Do’s” and “Don’ts” of sewing with fleece.

• Selecting your Fabric

While fleece may not be the easiest material to sew with, generally speaking, it is typically considered the best, most “fool proof” material to begin using when sewing for small pets.  This is because fleece is sturdy, slightly stretchy, non-woven fabric that will not fray when cut or torn.  When choosing your fleece, you will notice there are several brands or varieties.  The most commonly found are Anti-Pill, Blizzard, and Glacier.  When making a selection for your projects, it is not as important which brand you choose, as it is to asses the overall quality of each piece.  Your fabric should be nice and thick and not too stretchy.  If you pull the material with the direction of its stretch, it should not be so thin as to show light through the fibers.

• Machine Settings

All sewing for small pets should be done with a machine.  Even if you are very skilled with hand sewing, you will not be able to obtain the tension and small stitch length that is required for ultimate safety.  One of the main goals with pet-safe sewing is to ensure that the risk of entanglement by thread is reduced as MUCH as possible.  Serious to grave injuries can and do commonly occur where loose, uneven, or stray threads are present.  No one wants to see their pet injured or worse when the risk is easily preventable.

• Stitch length:  Your machine should be set to approximately 1.5 to 1.8mm.  If you have an analog machine, you can adjust your stitch dial to somewhere between 1 and 2.  You want your stitching to be fine and tight, but not TOO small.  If your setting is too small, your threads may bunch and clump, causing raised areas in the stitching which are also hazards.  Experiment with your individual machine to get the best results possible.  It may also be necessary to increase your stitch length a small amount when sewing multiple layers of fabric.  The thicker the fabric, the longer the stitch length.
• Tension:  For most machines, a tension setting between 4-6 is best for fleece.  This will again depend on your individual machine.  Adjust your settings so that the top and bottom threads pull evenly and lay neatly indented into your sewing.
• Needle Type:  For fleece, it is best to use sharp needles such as a denim/jeans needle, or a universal needle.  Rounded tip needles like stretch or ball point needles won’t sew as cleanly.

This slide is showing a nice, even line of tight stitching. When you sew your pieces together, you want the tension on your machine great enough so that the thread sets itself into the fabric as shown. There should be no bunching, loops of thread, uneven stitches, or clumps of stitching in the line.

Typically a setting of 1.5mm to 1.8mm stitch length is best when using fleece. The stitches should be small enough that you cannot easily slip the tip of a straight pin underneath them. This applies to both top-stitch and inner seaming. With nice, tight stitches like these, you will eliminate the risk of an animal snagging it’s nail on the thread and pulling loose the stitching.

Even when sewing your seams which will be hidden, you want to make sure to closely snip all end threads. Most small pets are burrowers and chewers, so there is a very real possibility that any item you place in the cage with them may be torn. Should this happen, your pet will still be safe until the piece can be removed.

When sewing any item for pets, you want to maintain an adequate seam allowance. A seam allowance of at least 5/8″ to 1/2″ is recommended. This ensures that as the item is put through the stress of use, your seams will not easily pull apart.

A seam allowance of 5/8″ is approximately equal to a 1cm seam allowance

This clump of stitching where the line was backstitched should be picked out and removed. Remember when you back stitch, you only need to go 3 stitches. Back stitch slowly in order to get a nice, clean finish at the beginning and end of each seam

This seam allowance is too small. When the item is put into use, stress on the seams could cause it to begin to pull apart.

These stitches are too large. They do not sink neatly into the fleece, and I can easily slip a straight pin underneath them. You want your stitches to be even smaller than this for ultimate safety.

Another large clump of stitching caused by improper back stitching. If this were on the outside of a pouch, it would be raised and cause a snagging hazard.

The tension on these stitches is too loose. When the seam is pulled apart, you can easily see the individual stitches. This could snag a nail and cause a hazard.

 

 

 

Bucket Pouch Tutorial

This tutorial will show you how to make a round, bucket-shaped pouch for your small critters.  This pouch is a favorite with sugar glider owners in particular as it can hold several gliders comfortably, and the open design qualifies it as an “open environment” pouch.  This allows your gliders to see you better as you reach in and check on them, which eases the stress response for many nocturnal pets.

You will need:

• 2 equal sized rectangular strips of fleece (one outer color and one inner color if you desire)
• 2 equal sized round pieces of fleece for the bottoms (one outer and one inner color)
• fleece strips for hanging if you wish to hang your pouch.

The formula for sizing the your pouch is as follows:  Find the diameter of your bottom using C=πd.  C is the circumference of your circle, which is determined by the length of your rectangular piece.  This will vary according to individual preference.  For this tutorial, a rectangle 22″ in length was used.  To find the diameter of the circle, divide your rectangle length (or C) by π (π≅3.14).  For this pouch, 22/π= approximately 7. so I made a circle with the diameter of 7″.  The height of your rectangle will be the height of the sides of your pouch.  For this pouch, I measured a rectangle of 22″ by 7″.  You may use different dimensions to make the pouch shorter or taller.

Start with 2 equal rectangles of fleece (shown are 7″ x 22″), 2 equal circles of fleece (shown are 7″ diameter circles), and fleece strips for hanging (here I used 3 strips, you could also use 4).

Fold the inner piece of fleece in half longways, with right sides together.

Stitch along the open short side, leaving a 1/2″ seam allowance. Backstitch at both ends. This will create a shallow “tube”

Pin your inner circle around the open end of the tube you’ve just created, right sides facing in.

Sew carefully around the edge of the circle, making sure to match the rounded edge to the straight edge of the tube.

Now one end of your tube will be covered.

Carefully clip notches into your seam allowance, making sure not to clip into the stitching. Clip all the way around the circular bottom, about 1/2″ to 3/4″ apart.

Repeat these steps with your outer fleece.

Reverse the inner piece so that it appears right side out.

Nest the inner layer inside the outer layer. You should be able to see the raw seams of both pieces.

If you will be adding strips for hanging, you will pin them in now. Fold each strip in half, and place in between the two layers, loop side down.

Pin in place with the raw edges matching.

Sew around the top edge of the pouch, leaving about 1.5″ open to turn the pouch. Backstitch on either side of the opening.

Turn the pouch right side out.

Tuck your inner layer into the outer layer. Tuck the raw edges of your turning hole under and prepare it for topstitching.

To finish, you may topstitch just the turning hole, or around the entire top of the pouch. Make sure your topstitch is neat, tight, and is a small stitch length. Trim all excess thread showing, and you’re done!

Finding Happiness

In today’s society, it’s very easy to be so focused on the main goals in our lives that we often forget how important it is to pay attention to the day to day.  We hear the phrase “take pleasure in the little things” quite regularly, but how often do we pay that idea more than just lip service?  Until recently, I found myself chasing goal after goal and looking for a better life so fervently that it became my way of life.  One day I finally stopped and realized that I was so focused on making things better for the indeterminate future, that I was completely ignoring my here
and now, and even worse, that here and now was becoming quite miserable.

In coming to terms with this realization, as well as my own personal realization that my future may not hold everything that I had once imagined for it (as happens to many of us, in my case this was because of a medical disability), I struggled for a time to determine what this meant.  After going through a range of emotions, many negative, some even destructive perhaps…I eventually came to the conclusion that I should adopt a different view on life and the way I was living it all together.

Too often we neglect the soul, though it is perhaps the most important part of ourselves to nurture.  If the spirit is drained, then we cannot hope to be our best and most productive selves.  What this has meant for me has been to redefine happiness on the most basic level.  We are taught to measure the level of our success in amounts of possessions.  My challenge to you is to ask yourself “Do these things really make me happy?”  Through this exercise, I have found it much more fulfilling to find happiness and peace in activities that cost nothing.  Simple pleasures that recharge the mind, body and soul.  An energizing walk through the city gardens on a sunny afternoon. Curling up with a good book or favorite movie and a cup of hot chocolate on a blustery winter evening.  Taking pride in a well completed work.  Notice the way these things make you feel and enjoy the true and honest euphoria of that happiness.

After learning to appreciate the joy that life brings by just being, I have also been able to become comfortable with the idea that whatever the future does hold for me, I will not only be ok with, but it will make me truly happy and fulfilled.  Whatever plan is laid out before me, I have the power and the right to change as I see fit.  This may not sound like much of an epiphany, but it is very liberating, especially if you are someone who has struggled to fit into certain molds for much of life.  Your future lies in your hands alone.  Period.  If you don’t like the way something is going in your world, change it.  Change anything, even if it is a tiny change, just make the first step in a new direction.  Then when you make the second step, and the third, it eventually gets easier from there.  Once you begin to learn to let go of the negative thoughts that have become roadblocks in your mind, you can start to turn “I can’t do that” into “I should try,”  and the greatest of empires were only built because someone first dared to try.

Critter Pouch Tutorial

This is a step-by-step pictorial on how to make a pouch with hidden seams for your small furry friends.  These pouches work great as sleeping pouches, cuddle sacks, lap sacks, or just about whatever for all sorts of snuggly buddies in your life.  I make them for my sugar gliders, but you can vary the size to make them for ratties, hedgies, guinea pigs, or even your pups if you enlarge it.  This design is very basic, so there are many possibilities if you tinker with it.  I highly suggest experimenting with the dimensions to see what works best for you!

You will need:

• 4 Fleece Squares of equal size (shown are 10″ x 10″ squares)
• 2 Fleece Strips if you wish to have a hanging pouch (shown are 4″ x 1″ strips)
• Sewing machine
• Good quality thread
• Fabric shears or Rotary blade and mat

Begin with 4 equal pieces of fleece. 2 for the inside of the pouch and 2 for the outside of the pouch. If you wish for your pouch to hang, you will also need 2 strips of fleece cut along the less-stretchy grain.

Take the 2 pieces for the inner layer of the pouch and place them together with the right sides of the fabric facing each other. Line them up so that all edges are even and together.

Sew along 3 sides of the fleece with a 1/2″ seam allowance

Optional steps for boxed corners: Open up the pouch and find one of the bottom corners with your fingers.

Optional steps for boxed corners: Pinch the corner together along the seam so that it forms a triangle at the bottom of the pouch. Match your bottom seam to your edge seam.

Optional steps for boxed corners: Flatten the corner and pin in place.

Optional steps for boxed corners: The pin should go through the seam on both sides. This will let you know that it is lined up properly.

Optional steps for boxed corners: Sew a seam perpendicular to the original seam about 1 inch from the tip of the corner. Sew farther back for a wider bottomed pouch.

Optional steps for boxed corners: Clip the excess corner off. Leave approximately 1/2″ of seam allowance.

Repeat the above steps with your outer fleece. You should now have 2 equal, single layer pouches.

Turn your inner layer right side out. Leave the outer layer wrong side out.

Nest the inner layer into the outer layer. The right sides should be facing each other, leaving the raw seams showing.

Now you will place your tabs (if used) in between the layers. Double over your tab with the right sides facing out, and place the raw edges against the top of the pouch so that the loop is facing down into the pouch. You may place them in whichever orientation you desire. I place my tabs against the side seams. Some like to place tabs along one side. Use whichever placement you find most useful.

Pin the tab to hold it in place. Remember to always remove your pins before sewing over them!

Sew around the top of the pouch at a 1/2″ seam allowance, leaving about a 1″ to 1.5″ gap in your sewing to turn the pouch. Make sure to backstitch on either side of your opening.

Begin turning your pouch through this opening.

When your pouch is turned, you will have one long piece that looks like this. Your tabs should also be to the outside if you added them. Go ahead and stuff the inside pouch into the outside and adjust it so that it sits properly.

Tuck the raw edges of your opening under so that it is neat and ready to close.

You may close the opening using a full topstitch around the whole pouch as shown here, or with just enough to securely close it. Close with machine stitch only for safety, and remember to backstitch at the beginning and end of your seam. Trim all extra threads as close as possible.

 

Lazy Day Sewing

It’s chilly and damp here in the Bluegrass today, so I spent my off time sewing up this cozy cowl neck raglan with my brand new Brother1034D Serger.  This sweatshirt fleece  from Hancock’s is very warm and fluffy and was a breeze to sew.  It doesn’t have a whole lot of stretch, but for a non-fitted pattern like the one I used, it was perfect.

This is a tunic length Women’s Raglan from Pattern’s for Pirates (pattern can be found here) with the optional cowl addition.  This is a great pattern for sewists with a basic knowledge but who are just learning the ins and outs of sewing clothing.  I also love this one as a great stand by for all sorts of different styles and fabrications.

If you are new to sewing or just new to sewing clothing, the P4P patterns are a good place to start.  The PDF patterns and tutorials are clear and easy to understand, and they also offer support through their blog and a facebook sewing group.

Happy sewing all!

Fleece Sleeping Cube Tutorial

A step-by-step photographic tutorial for making a sleeping cube for pet sugar gliders, rats, hedgehogs, or other small pets.  This tutorial will teach you how to safely make the cube pictured to the right here.  This is a simple project that can be completed with your sewing machine and just a few pieces of fleece.

You will need:

• Sewing machine and good quality thread
• Fabric shears or rotary cutter/mat
• 12 pieces of fleece cut into even squares.  Size is up to personal preference and will depend on the type and number of animals you are sewing for.
• 4 fleece strips if you wish to hang your cubes.  1-2″ in width x 4’5″ in length is usually a good size.  When cutting your fleece strips , make sure they do not stretch with the length of your strip.

You will begin with 12 equally cut squares of fleece, 6 pieces for your inner lining, and 6 pieces for your outer cube. You will also need 4 equal strips of fleece for the hanging tabs if you wish for your tab to hang.

Begin by pairing one square of fleece from the inside and one square from the outside together, right sides together. Match them evenly at all sided and corners and pin securely.

Using a marking pen, draw or trace a shape for your front opening. You may make this in any shape, though circles and squares are most common.

Sew completely around your opening marking, making sure to backstitch at the beginning and end of your stitching. Clip all threads when done.

Cut into your opening leaving a 1/4″ seam allowance to the inside.

Carefully clip into your seam allowance, making sure not to cut into the seam. For circular openings, clip every 1/2″-3/4″ or so. For a square opening, only clip into the corners. This will help the opening to lie flat when turned.

Reverse the inner and outer fabrics so that they are right sides out and the seam is now hidden.

Flatten and match all edges and corners.

(Optional Step) Neatly topstitch around the opening at about 1/4″ seam allowance. Make sure to use small stitches (usually about 1.6mm-2mm depending on fabric thickness). Your topstitch should have good, even tension and should appear to be “buried” into the fleece when done. Overlap the seam and backstitch at beginning and end. Clip all threads.

Using your 5 remaining pieces of inner fleece, you will now construct the body of the inside of the cube. Start by matching 2 pieces corner to corner and edge to edge, right sides together.

Stitch a seam along the top edge with a 1/2″ seam allowance, backstitching at both ends. Clip all threads when done.

You will have a nice, hidden seam on the inside when you open it up.

With the two pieces opened, line a third piece to the right square, matching it corner to corner and edge to edge. This new piece will overlap where you have previously sewn.

Sew a seam across the top as previously directed with a 1/2″ seam allowance

Repeat on all 4 sides until you have one square in the center with 4 flaps sewn evenly around it.

Repeat this process to construct the outer portion.

To begin closing in the inner cube, line adjacent side flaps up, corner to corner and edge to edge. This will create a diagonal crease in your center piece. Sew a seam across the top at a 1/2″ seam allowance, making sure that your left hand stitching intersects with the precious stitching to give a closed corner.

Inside view of the closed corner.

Repeat on all 4 sides

The inner view of the enclosed cube.

Now begin closing the outer cube. If you wish to add hanging tabs, you will do this now. Take your fleece strips and fold them in half, placing them along the top edge of one of your side pieces, spaced as shown.

Cover with the corresponding flap, making sure to line both squares corner to corner and edge to edge as shown. Pin the flaps in place. Sew a 1/2″ seam along the top as you did for the inner piece. Repeat the tabs on an adjacent side, then sew the remaining two sides as with the inner cube.

The tabs will be facing as shown once sewn.

The outer cube will appear reversed once sewn. It will be turned when the cube is finished.

Now take your front piece, and align it with the outer cube first. Place the front so that your inner flap is facing to the outside, right sides of the outer fleece will be facing together to be sewn.

Match the square edges corner to corner and edge to edge, then sew a 1/2″ seam across the top edge.

Repeat on all 4 sides to create an enclosed cube.

Repeat on THREE of 4 sides with the inner cube. Now you will have a “kissing” cube configuration. Both should appear inside out.

When sewing the fourth and final side of the inner cube, leave about a 1″ to 1.5″ opening in the seam, making sure to backstitch on either side.

This opening is where you will turn the cube inside out. Once you have trimmed the threads, you can begin to carefully pull both cubes right side out through this hole.

Turning the cubes.

Once the cubes are right side out, you may close this opening. You must machine topstitch for safety, do NOT handstitch. Turn the raw edges under for a neat finish, then sew about 1/4″ from the edge with tight, neat topstitch.

The closed turning hole.